What is the average height & length of a German Shepherd puppy?

I’m planning to buy 2 GS pure breed puppies of 8-10 weeks of age. Since they’ll be traveling the airlines have rules on what size the kennel should be & of course the price varies according to its size. These are the measurements I need:

A. From the tip of the nose to the root of the tail
B. From the elbow measurement to the ground
C. The width of the dog at the widest point
D. From the floor to the tip of the ears or the top of the head, whichever is higher (ears must not touch the top of the kennel in animal’s natural standing position)

Any help would be appreciated, thank you very much.
No worries I’ll be buying the pups in person- they’ll be traveling after that with me.
Which is why I’m just asking theoretical, as I have yet to find a breeder- though I am looking for one rigorously. Is there no such thing as a general or average estimate for them?

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    4 Responses to “What is the average height & length of a German Shepherd puppy?”

    1. Sammy Gabbie LOVE raw meat! says:

      Is the breeder registered with the German Shepherd Club of (America, or whatever country you’re in)? If so, they should already know what the average sizes of such pups would be. If they aren’t registered with the parent breed club of your country, then do NOT buy these puppies.

    2. Suus Angelous says:

      Since there can be no precise measurement I suggest you ask the breeder to measure right now and if possible to estimate for you how much bigger the pup will get so you know what size to buy. Then again, the breeder should include shipping when buying if that’s the way you choose to do it.

    3. Noccie says:

      Don’t buy a dog from a breeder that you did not visit with first. Many breeders who do this type of business (particularly in Kansas and Washington State) are running puppy mills.
      Get a dog from a German Shep rescue society or a local breeder that you can visit.

    4. King Les The Lofty says:

      Defer your plans – you simply do not yet know enough to ask the right questions! Or even to have a sensible plan!

      #1: Do NOT get 2 at once. After you have raised ONE pup properly (most owners makes a mess of that, even with only ONE pup…), you will realise that no newbie can concentrate on TWO pups at once – and without 100% concentration you cannot learn your pup’s timing & signals. In addition: (1) a pair of pups will bond with each other instead of bonding to their human, which immediately makes you less effective (they don’t much care whether they please you or not – they’ve got each other). (2) You can’t handle 2 pups at once in a training class. (3) While you are trying to get one to concentrate on you, the other will be distracting it – sometimes by howling & yapping, sometimes by actually dive-bombing the one you are working with.

      #2: AFTER your have successfully trained your first pup, and had it neutered, the sensible approach is to then wait until about halfway through its life-expectancy, and get a pup of the OPPOSITE sex. Advantages are: (1) There is never any rivalry re which is alpha dog, which alpha bit.ch. (2) Neutering can wait until each pooch is mature. (3) The younger one has a well-trained adult to mimic – makes training MUCH easier! (4) When the older dies, you have a loving pooch to help you through the grief period, and then for the new puppy to mimic.

      By then you will also know that:
      • 10 weeks is rather late – the proper time to rehouse a pup is at 7-to-9 weeks old. You need TIME to settle Pup in, get it to trust you and regard you as the source of everything good in the universe, then do all the "familiarisation & confidence building" that has to be done (or mostly done) by the time Pup turns 13 weeks. Most people call it "socialisation", but it has NOTHING to do with playing with strange dogs and strange people.
      • Until you know MUCH more about the behaviours and development of the breed, you should get your dogs locally. For us, "locally" was an 8 hour drive to stay with my in-laws, then pick a pup at leisure from a nearby breeder we had previously arranged to see, then next day drive 8 hours home with Pup in a cardboard box in the passenger’s foot-space.
      • If shipping is involved, it is the shipper’s role to arrange for a suitable container – one that is sure to be BIGGER than the absolute minimum needed. You will probably find that the air-line you use has them available for hire provided you give them at least a week to fly the empty crate to where you want to fly your new pup from.
      • You have asked for the wrong figures. The usual requirement for a pooch’s flight crate is that it be tall enough for the pooch to stand straight in, long enough to stretch out while lying down (which is MUCH longer than the "A" you asked for – probably 3½ times that measurement!), wide enough to turn around in.

      If you look in the Links => Size_&_Weight section of the first group below, you will start to realise how FAST they grow at that age. If you go ahead with ONE 8 weeks pup from too far away to just drive, you will probably find that an L20 x W10 x H12" internal measurement cage would satisfy the requirements.

      ◙ Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser’s Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as rescue groups, feeding, vaccinations, worming, clubs, weights, teething, neutering, disorders, genetics.
      In its Links => Defining_a_GSD you will discover the tests & certificates a good breeder requires before considering using a pooch. But you will need to decide whether the printed & signed Guarantee supplied is worthwhile or just intended to make it impossible to claim.
      If you Join that group you can click Links then "Choosing a GSD.doc" to download several scales that help you compare breeders and litters.

      ◙ To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with them. Each group’s Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos in your messages.
      Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
      "In GSDs" as of 1967

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