leopard gecko setup question?

I live in QLD and I’m hoping to get a gecko leopard. I have thought a while about it and I know im capable of looking after it. But I’m still confused about the steup. I have looked at many care sheets and sites about them but they say different things. Im hoping to either find a cheap glass tank in the weekend shopper or get a plastic one. I know not to put sand in the bottom and for a baby I will put paper towel. I think i will have a heat pad underneath the tank so it doesnt burn it but the heat will still get through. Is it right that i dont need a light?
And we have a small pet shop down the road from us so i know i can get food for it easy. From what I’ve read crickets and meal worms are what they eat. I think I will also have 3 houses for the gecko to hid in. One in the cool end, and two in the warm end, a humid one and a dry one. And i believe you need to have 3 bowls, one for water, one for that powder you need and one for the meal worms.
I am going to get the bowls just from my kitchen and make the hide-outs. And i would love to know the dimensions (I SAID DIMENSIONS) for a tank for 1 leopard gecko tank that have a nice area for the gecko to run around in and isn’t to big. If you want post a link to one of your set-ups with something to compare it to next to it. Finally some questions:
If i dont need a light to they need anything to climb on?
For feeding it can (after a while of having it) I just put the crikets in with it over night and get out the left overs in the morning?
Living in QLD with the summer temperatures being over the heat they need to i need to have the heat mat on all the time and in winter if they days are hot enough can i only have it on at night?
Does anyone know a breeder who i can get the gecko from for a cheaper price?
And any useful information you might have would be appreciated!

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5 Responses to “leopard gecko setup question?”

  1. Dave says:

    I have some leopards, send me an email

  2. tko1271 says:

    Firstly you dont need a light or something to climb on. Three hides is easy and the dimesion for the humid hide should be around 2 " high and 4" long and 3 " wide.

    It better not get over 85+ where your keeping him. Besided the fact that that is crazy hot for a room he needs a temp gradient. He needs a cool and hot side so keep him in a 75 degree room. With pad under the hot side. You might want a rheostat for heat pad because they get way to hot.

    Feed it at night before you go and you can leave them but if he doesnt eat them all you have crickets that are everywhere, and loud, and can eat poop, cantaminate water, drown and die, bite your leo. I heard that a cricket bit a leos tail and he dropped it. You dont want that. I’d give him 1/2 an hour then take out the remaining.

  3. Mrs. Lea says:

    NJ has a very good care sheet for you to look over.

    I used to have three leos. I kept each one in a separate 20 gallon glass aquarium. That provides plenty of room for them to live in. I never used a heating pad because even when placed underneath the aquarium there may be areas that can become too hot for the gecko’s sensitive belly. I would recommend an overhead heating lamp. It is true that you do not need a light but keep in mind that these geckos are usually nocturnal and if you want to see them at night, you may consider a red or black light specifically made for reptiles. Also, I wouldn’t use ordinary bowls. Geckos are very low to the ground and need shallow dishes to feed and drink from. You also do not need a bowl for the powder, also known as reptical. Sometimes they won’t lick at it and the best thing to do would be to put a small amount in a plastic ziploc bag and add the crickets to it. That way you can give the bag a light shake and dust the crickets with it. Also remember that the crickets need to be feed as well. Gutload is good. It provides a lot of extra nutrients for the gecko. As a treat, you can also give your gecko waxworms. One or two a month is enough though because they are high in fat. I don’t recommend using a paper towel either because when grabbing the crickets the gecko may end up with paper in its mouth which isn’t good for their digestive system. See if your pet shop has some sort of synthetic turf (the plastic stuff that looks like grass). That has worked well for my geckos. Also very easy to remove the waste that way. When you feed the gecko, it is best to watch it for a few minutes and remove the crickets that it doesn’t eat. This way the crickets cant jump all over the gecko and stress him/her out. Unless your gecko lives outside, you don’t have to worry about alternating the temp in your setup. Just leave one side warmer than the other and the gecko will pick the side that it prefers. Try to keep it constant. Also remember that geckos shed their skin. This type of gecko will eat it, so do be alarmed if you see it doing that. They turn a ghostly white color several days before shedding as well. Geckos do like to climb. I prefer to use a log that can be purchased at the pet store. Those are also great to hide in or under. As for breeders, I can’t help you there. Mine were all purchased at the pet store. I hope all of this helps.

  4. Nikita says:

    Is QLD Queensland? Not sure on that one. 🙂

    I’d advise you to join a good reptile forum where you can ask questions from people who have kept these animals before. That’s your best bet for finding info for all the issues you’ll face as you jump into owning a new (and great) pet.

    A glass tank will be best because you won’t have to worry about it eventually degrading or warping from the heating pad.

    Paper towel is a great choice – you’re definitely right to not use sand. You can also use ceramic tiles if you want an inexpensive, easy-to-clean and classy setup. I had mine cut at a hardware store and they work great at providing belly heat for my geckos.

    They don’t need a light unless you want one just for looks, because they are nocturnal and don’t require ultraviolet light.

    Crickets and mealworms are fine as a food source, just remember to buy a good calcium supplement (plain calcium is fine) and dust twice a week to every week. They won’t give your gecko enough calcium otherwise.

    Your info on hide boxes and where in the cage to put them is great. 🙂 And the 3 bowls is good too – having a calcium dish present is always a good idea.

    As to dimensions for a good tank, the bare minimum for a leopard gecko should be a 10-gallon tank. The dimensions on these are 20 inches long by 12 inches wide by…about 12 inches high, I believe. 10 gallons is a standard tank size and should be very easy to find.

    Personally, I think it’s very hard to provide all 3 hides in a 10-gallon tank and still have room for the dishes and for the lizard to move around. My 10-gallons all have a homemade second level to the tank to compensate for this.

    A better option is a 20-gallon long tank. These are 30 inches long by the same width and height as a 10-gallon – about a foot tall and wide, I think. This gives you a lot more room and I definitely advise this for an adult leopard gecko.

    They don’t need things to climb on, but they do appreciate it. I covered my hideboxes with rough cloth so that my geckos can climb on top of them.

    You won’t know whether you can go without a heating pad until you test the tank temperatures. Get two good strip thermometers, one for the floor of the cool side and one for the floor of the warm side, to test the temps. You’ll want the warm side to be about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. They appreciate a drop at night, so unless your house gets very cold at night, they should be fine without supplemental heat at nighttime.

    Well, I hope that helps answer your questions.

  5. NJ reptiles says:

    Here, my care sheet answers alot of the question..

    Also if u live in the US i have an adult female murphy patternless for sale, I’m willing to lower the price if your interested by not by much.

    This is my care sheet

    Email me at any time with questions regrading leopard geckos.

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